Lost and Found in Nagpur: A Soulful Journey Through Central India

mohan patelmohan patel
6 min read

t’s not often that a city will surprise you with its warmth, energy, and inescapable flavors. But Nagpur did that — and more. A frequent traveler who has walked through regal deserts, green valleys, and metropolises, I was surprised by how much I bonded with Nagpur. What was initially a spontaneous diversion became one of the most rewarding experiences as a traveler that I’ve ever had.

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From soulful heritage places to lip-smacking food, and friendly locals to surprisingly peaceful moments, my days in Nagpur were a mix of joy, nostalgia, and discovery. So let me walk you through my experience in the Orange City — where every street resonated with stories, and every meal felt like home.

First Impressions of Nagpur

The second I stepped out of the plane in Nagpur, I felt at ease — part city, part hometown feel. It’s neither too fast-paced like Mumbai nor too relaxed like a small-town country. It was perfectly balanced. The roads were neat, traffic remarkably bearable, and there was something sweet in the city’s unassuming manner of drawing you in.

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Affordable Comfort with CheQin

Before I delve into the places and stories, I have to give a shout-out to the CheQin app, which has consistently been my savior for booking pocket-friendly, comfortable accommodations. I booked a neat, clean hotel near Sitabuldi that offered all the amenities I needed for a relaxed stay — Wi-Fi, 24/7 water, and even a cozy balcony for my morning chai sessions.

Whereas CheQin only books the hotel, what set it apart was how easy it was to navigate and filter by budget. I wasted less time worrying about the accommodations and more time organizing my trip in Nagpur.

Day 1: Of Oranges and Old Markets

It was a sunny, bright morning when I decided to go to the famous Cotton Market. This crowded, somewhat disorganized spot is famous for its Nagpur oranges — sweetest, juiciest oranges you will ever taste. I picked a dozen from one of the smiling vendors and ate two of them there. I swear, it tasted like sunlight coated in citrus.

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I then strolled through Itwari Market, a bustling bazaar for all sorts of spices, sarees, and other things. I chanced upon a small stall that sold tarri poha — a specialty from Nagpur. Spicy poha sprinkled with a lip-scorching red curry and sev for crunch. It was breakfast, but also a revelation.

Day 2: Tigers, Temples, and Timeless Memories

Day 2 saw me leaving early for Pench National Park, some 90 km from Nagpur. While technically within Madhya Pradesh, it’s a day-trip destination. The safari ride was thrilling. I didn’t catch a glimpse of a tiger (which made me jealous of those who did), but did see sambar deer, langurs, and a wild boar running like a marauding motorcycle.

Upon my return to Nagpur, I went to the popular Tekdi Ganesh Mandir. Situated atop a hillock, the temple was peaceful and the cityscape at the top was panoramic, particularly during sunset. I rested there for some time, contemplating how much this brief excursion was already starting to mean to me.

Food Trail: The Best of Nagpur’s Culinary Secrets

Nagpur’s cuisine is a resplendent ode to the bold flavours of Maharashtra and the fusion influences of central India. A few of the jewels I visited are listed below:

Haldiram’s, Sitabuldi: The main store is a landmark itself. Their chole bhature and samosas cannot be beaten, and the sweets counter is divine.

Saoji Food: Saoji food is Nagpur’s hot crown jewel. I had the mutton saoji thali at Jagdish Saoji Bhojanalaya. It was extremely hot but richly flavored. Spice heaven for a spice enthusiast!

Zuree Urban Kitchen: For something more contemporary, Zuree presented chic Indo-continental cuisine with rooftop feel and awesome music. Their butter garlic prawns were heavenly.

Shree Ganesh Thali: A pure veg thali joint with unlimited food. Dal, bhaakri, kadi, sabzis, and chutneys — served with love.

Photo by Zoshua Colah on Unsplash

Pro Tip: Always ask for “less spicy” if you’re not used to Nagpur’s heat level. They don’t hold back.

Day 3: Culture, History, and Peaceful Corners

I began the third day at Deekshabhoomi — a significant location in Indian history where Dr. B.R. Ambedkar converted to Buddhism together with millions of followers. The white dome building was gigantic and peaceful. I lingered there for nearly an hour just soaking in the atmosphere.

Then, I visited the Nagpur Central Museum. Although compact, it boasts a decent selection of ancient relics, fossils, and tribal art that provides backdrop to the region’s rich cultural heritage.

Later in the day, I chanced upon Café Crème on Dharampeth. I didn’t expect much, but their sandwiches and cold coffee made for an ideal mid-day break. The warm interiors and friendly welcome encouraged me to stay on longer than intended.

Futala Lake Sunset

The last evening, I went to Futala Lake. A favorite hangout area, particularly in the night, the beauty of the lake is supplemented by musical fountains and food stalls. I picked a roasted corn cob, sat on a deserted bench, and just sat there — observing the sun set below the horizon, coloring the sky orange and golden.

Something clicked in that moment.

There was something incredibly warm about Nagpur. It wasn’t showy or attention-seeking. It just allowed you to be. And that’s what made it unforgettable.

Travel Tips and Tricks for Nagpur

Travel Smart: The city is auto- and Ola/Uber-connected, but even local buses are a decent budget option.

Best Time to Visit: October to March is best. Summers can be really hot.

Food Safety: Stick to crowded restaurants and drink bottled water.

Must-Buy Souvenirs: Oranges (seasonal), turmeric, bamboo handicrafts, and local sweets.

Early Mornings are Gold: Markets and temples are best visited before the crowd congregates.

Accommodation Hack with CheQin

As noted above, CheQin was central to this journey. I had initially set aside a reasonable amount of money for my accommodation, but spent nearly 40% less by utilizing the app’s budget filter. I appreciated that it displayed real guest reviews and precise ratings. The hotel that I picked was not upscale, but it was safe, clean, in the middle of everything, and ideal for a lone traveler like myself.

What did I like most? No unnecessary popups, no surprise hidden fees at the last minute. It only does one thing — find you a hotel — and it does it extremely well.

Final Thoughts: Why I’ll Return to Nagpur

When I left Nagpur, I really felt as if I was leaving behind a part of myself. Not every city does this to you. Perhaps it was the unassuming street food, the spiritual quiet, or the small epiphanies — like the shopkeeper who shared extra poha with me simply because “you’re a guest,” or the stranger who showed me where I was going without expecting anything in return.

Nagpur doesn’t shout to be heard, but if you do — when you peer beyond the orange carts and congested roads — you discover a city that softly settles in your heart. And you’ll return. To revisit the food, the generosity, the simplicity.

In a world fixated on glamour, Nagpur taught me that the simple things in life are as pretty as they are awesome.

Until next time, Orange City.

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mohan patel
mohan patel