Walking Through Memory: My Slow Journey in Orchha

First Impressions of Time Stepping Back

Certain locations seem untouched by the world’s pace. Orchha, nestled in Madhya Pradesh, is such a location. It doesn’t boast — it just is, with the peaceful assurance of a past capital that was once filled with royal footsteps. I hadn’t intended to make a detour here, but the more people I spoke with who were traveling, the more it sounded like somewhere you had to linger.

Upon arrival, I saw how the contemporary world gradually gives way to the past here. The roads are narrow and paved with ancient stone. Locals stroll along in their own time. And most of all, towering palaces and temples stand quietly in the distance.

Finding My Corner with a Palace View

I stayed in a lovely homestay within a short walking distance from the central heritage places. I had used cheQin.ai and simply put in that I needed something near the palace, quiet, and homey. In a few minutes, I had some results, and one of them had a roof garden overlooking the Orchha Fort complex. That was it.

Every morning began with the sound of temple bells in the distance and the soft glow of the sun touching the palace domes. I’d sip tea on the terrace and just watch the town wake up slowly. There was no rush. And that was the beauty of it.

Wandering Through Royal Shadows

The star here is the Orchha Fort complex. It features Raja Mahal, Jahangir Mahal, and a few lesser courtyards and halls. The walk through these sandstone buildings is like reading through an old book of stories. Murals faded with time still adhere to the walls of the palace. The staircases slope and the doors are gigantic, while the arches offer glimpses of the Betwa River in the distance.

Jahangir Mahal, especially in itself, was impressive. Constructed to welcome Emperor Jahangir when he visited, it is a heritage structure showcasing a blend of Mughal and Bundela styles. I stood on its upper balcony and gazed down at the magnificent gateways, thinking how elephants and royal processions used to tread along here once.

Sacred Spots in Everyday Corners

Orchha is also very religious. The Ram Raja Temple stands out — it’s the only temple where Lord Ram is revered as a king within a palace atmosphere. The complex comes alive, particularly in the evenings during the aarti. The atmosphere is genuine and not overpowering.

My favorite were the little shrines nestled away in side alleys or sitting atop small hills. I entered one of these temples that had no one about, only birdsong and the breeze in the trees. It was intimate, as if the town was sharing its peaceful secrets with me.

The Serenity of the Betwa River

In the late afternoon, I proceeded toward the Betwa River. Orchha’s renowned chhatris — cenotaphs constructed in remembrance of Bundela rulers — are strung along its banks. They resemble vigilant sentinels guarding tales of yore.

I sat on the riverbank and observed its tranquil flow. Some villagers were washing clothes, some children were bathing, and tourists, such as myself, were simply looking on. The golden light of the setting sun fell upon the water and the chhatris shimmered with a gentle golden light. That moment did not demand anything of me. I did not have to photograph it or define it. I simply had to be there.

A View to Eat From and Some Laughter

Dinner that night was on the roof of my homestay. The caretaker had made a simple thali with roti, sabzi, dal, and rice. We sat on cushions, and as the sun set, the lights on the palace glowed like a dream. Fellow travelers joined in, and we exchanged tales under the open sky.

There was laughter, there were shared recommendations for the next stop, and there was silence too — comfortable and warm.

What Orchha Taught Me

The charm of Orchha isn’t in big crowds or dramatic monuments. It’s in the small things: a child waving from a temple step, a priest humming to himself, a mural half-faded but still holding beauty.

I went to Orchha anticipating ruins. I departed with memories of a thriving town that continues to breathe in its palaces, temples, and riversides.

In case you’re ever journeying through Central India and need a respite from the din and bustle, take Orchha. Go without an agenda. Simply walk its streets, sit by the river, and allow the town to reveal itself to you.